What comes to mind when you think of Vietnam? War? Communism? Rice? Both of us had a hard time imagining present-day Ho Chi Minh City, but we definitely didn’t expect to see the clean streets, manicured gardens, booming commercial district, tiled sidewalks and modern buildings that now define the heart of this felled democratic city. This place classifies the contemporary metropolis, especially on the heels of our travels through Cambodia.

In terms of development and cleanliness, I thought it surpassed smog-choked, dusty Bangkok, the proclaimed gateway of South-East Asia. Actually, in strolling through a majority of Saigon’s streets, I guessed we could be in the hub of any major Western city. Well, that’s if you unleash 5 million swerving mopeds, dissolve any shred of vehicular protocol, and infuse a healthy dose of street vendors, cyclos ( a pedal driven carriage) and Chinese culture to the chaotic mix.

Saigon is an inviting blend of ancient eastern culture and modern western comfort that (in my opinion) ought to draw more tourism than we saw. The 100+ years of French influence crops up deliciously in the baguettes and crepes sold on most corners; not to mention the full-scale copy of Paris’ Notre Dame in the city center. Northface, Columbia, Adidas, Puma, and Nike all have manufacturing plants here, so the variety and cost of shopping is really unbelievable. Our immaculate hotel room had up-to-date furnishings, hot water, satellite TV, free breakfast and WIFI for $12 per night.

Exceptional, right?

It’s strange, but fortunate that this unique Asian gem has still avoided the devouring, fanny-pack-clad hordes that inevitably drain all quaint charm from destinations around the world. We enjoyed a leisurely walking-tour, squatted over delicious bowls of “pho” (Vietnamese soup with rice noodles, mint, and beef), explored ornate incense-filled Chinese-Buddhist temples, and listened to traditional folk music all without the nuisance of other tourists. Escaping tour groups and interacting with the locals has become increasingly difficult and our holy grail on this trip.

Also, in case you were wondering, gone are the days of conspicuous prostitution and drug use that tainted Saigon’s steamy neon alleys. Crime and theft have been significantly curtailed. The socialist regime extinguished all lawlessness that branded Saigon a notorious city in the Vietnam War. Clearly, they’ve not only cleansed and rebuilt HCMC, but effectively fostered economic growth under an authoritarian government, seemingly in the footsteps of its sizeable communist neighbor, China.

Both of us agree, Saigon should be on everyone’s must-see list in Asia. The culture. The comfort. The shopping!

For those of you who are not familiar with the Vietnamese currency, ( Troy and I had fun with this) it’s the Dong. Yes, I’m serious, see the photo. Additionally, there are 16,000 Dongs to 1 US dollar, so essentially, you could say we’re all Dong millionaires.

“How many dongs do you have on you?”
“Put your dong away”
“Don’t worry, I’ll pay with dong”
“That’s a lot of dong”

I’ll let it go now, but we squeezed every ounce out of it. 

For higher amounts, the Vietnamese deal in US dollars, ( like Cambodia) as 7-digit-dealings become unnecessarily complex. Even smaller purchases can be confusing, so Troy and I invested .75 cents in a mini-calculator for most of the leg-work. Thankfully, the vendors we’ve encountered have been honest, one returning the equivalent of $15 US dollars for two sodas and a pack of gum. ::sheepish grin::

While pausing at a stand selling Northface backpacks, we noticed a woman selling yellow liquid in various old alcohol bottles. On closer inspection, we noticed the bottles also included a variety of disagreeable matter: cobras, insects, pink blobs of “medicine”, grass-snakes, and scorpions, some with the scorpions picturesquely in the snake’s mouth. Of course Troy, who has become disturbingly eager to ingest any/everything, suggests we buy a bottle.

“It make you strong” chimes the old woman, wrinkled and donned with a thatch conical hat.

Well, honey, if she claims it improves health, I guess I can assuage every gut instinct that screams the contrary and give it a try…

I am happy to announce we are both still alive. Though I did not experience euphoria, hallucinations or any improvement in health, the pungent swig did impart a sticky bitter film in my mouth. Ah, this is “adventure” though, right? :)

Tomorrow we are off to the sand dunes of Mui Ne in our own private jeep tour for just $18 bucks US. What a deal. Troy wants to try his luck at sand-sledding. I will laugh at him and take photos of the fiasco. Maybe, if he doesn't perish, I'll try it too...

We'll try to upload some more pics tomorrow evening
www.fotki.com/visceraltext
XOXOOXOXOX