.

Sunday, April 08, 2007







It's been about 6 weeks into our Kiwi initiation. Both of us have started our jobs, Troy at Opus and me at Vodafone. We've fully furnished our apartment; the tiny box in the city it is. We've weathered our first Kiwi storm, complete with sideways-blowing rain. We've learned what muppet, sweet as, flash, gutted, and posey mean; no, it's not how you suspect. We've hosted our first couchsurfers: Suvi and Heikki from Finland, who helped us to discover Devonport and how to fit 4 people in 40 sq ft. And we've taken our first weekend trip out of Auckland, 4 hours drive north, to the beautiful Bay of Islands. We went caving and gazed at glow worms, we climbed cliffs to glimpse a view of Waipu Cove, we saw Whangarei Falls!

It's home!! Well...almost.

We miss all of you guys dearly and hope you've fattened up on chocolate and candy. Sorry we couldn't be together, but we will see each other soon enough; we promise!
Happy Easter :D
XOXOXOXOX












Sunday, March 11, 2007


On February 10th, less than 1 week after I posted the last blog, we bid farewell to Bangkok (the city where we lost gallons of sweat), on a red-eye Tiger Airlines flight through Singapore to Darwin, Australia. Cursory and quick plannng left us with an inaccurate idea of our travel itinerary. ( I am happy to confide this, for a change, was Troy's fault)

From our experience with international flights, I should have known $130 per person for the Thailand to Oz flight would not buy reasonable departure, layover and arrival times. Turns out, after leaving Bangkok at 9pm, and arriving after midnight, we would spend 17 hours roaming the Singapore airport terminals before leaving.

Awesome!

There are substantial differences between the main and budget terminals of the Singapore airport; differences which become deeply contrasted when you're exhausted, dirty, jet-lagged, homeless, and carting nearly 200 lbs of poorly-packed baggage. **Apparently $3 dollar duffle bags bought at Thai flea markets aren't superior quality. Just days after purchase we needed to utilize aesthetically-pleasing duct tape to restrain the bras, underwear and knock-off perfume from the tears**

The Singapore budget terminal is a large white box housing a suspect coffee stand, and a row of uncomfortable plastic chairs and a staff of irritated employees who're pissed they've been bastardized to the ghetto. The glittering main concourse has massage chairs, comfortable beds, olympic-sized swimming pool, free sex and drugs. Suctioned, face to glass, we witnessed the luxury main terminal passengers enjoyed, while we "budget travelers" rotted alive on cold tile beaten with seizure-inducing repitition of Celine Dion's "My heart will go on". ( Asians have a disturbing affinity for this song)

Much, earlier ( well-rested and clean), we discussed sleeping in the airport, because 17 hours is too short to arrive at 2:00am and pay for a hotel, just to rush back to the airport. At least, that's what we thought. Never having experienced sleeping in an airport, we both surmised it the best and cheapest choice.

After collecting a household from the baggage carousel and punching myself in the face, I got a cart and we began the trek to the shuttle, which would take us from budget to main terminal. The plan was to utilize the main terminal and return to budget in time to reach our flight. Right now, it was 2am, and apart from the arctic blast of the zealous air-conditioning, the midi-ish Muzak permeating from plastic bushes, and one suspicious scuffling janitor ( who seemed to be gathering surveillance on us) the terminal was off limits and dead.

Much to our dismay, we discovered the inside main terminal is blocked to those who do not have tickets departing there. After a few minutes of calmly discussing the kink in our plans ( screeching, screaming, flailing, collapsing) we surveyed the available three floors of inhospitable granite and tile to retire for the night. Could we really do this? McDonalds, Starbucks and Swensens were closed, security-filmed and although they had comfortable looking booths, they were no-gos. Singapore isn't known for being lenient to any sort of law-breaking, definitely not in its prized main airport terminal. Not wanting to be caned, or jailed for life for sleeping on a fast food bench, we found a room of glass, tile and stone perched above a runway, called a take-off viewing room. It stored a handful of other budget-terminal-damned travelers. We rolled out our sleeping bags, silk sleep sheets and tried to ignore the echoes of snores, tinny-blast of soft rock, garbage being emptied and tile being buffed. A few times we heard teenagers running and screaming through the concourse; the airport terminal being a place of choice for Singaporean youth.

Entirely delerious and stinky, we arose again at 5am, having not slept, showered or changed, deciding to spend the rest of our 14 hours wandering the terminal. We hung out in Starbucks, and then moved to some diner, in which, we proceeded to pass out. I don't think we left the lingering Singaporean families with a good impression; we woke to children being nervously shooed away from our table. Five hours later we wiped our crusted drool, rode the sky train between terminals a dozen times, and then loitered by the free internet terminals, kicking off a bunch of school children playing video games.

By the time 8pm rolled around, and we'd checked into our Darwin flight, and dropped our fleet of luggage, we were so tired we'd slept through take-off and landing; a luxury in which I never indulge, as I am usually busy ( obsessed) mentally re-enacting a mid-air explosion.

We arrived to Darwin International just after 2:30am, to a very dutiful customs department, who seemed to delight in reporting "a situation" at counter 4; Troy's opened gummy worms apparently flagrant threats to the Aussie national security. Resigned to leave the sour worms with them (although I did eat one right there to show them who's boss) we fuddled through the rest of their process, trying to balance our circus of luggage and get to our shuttle.

After short visits in Darwin, Surfer's Paradise and Byron Bay, on February 20th, we stepped off the Virgin Blue flight in our first New Zealand city: Auckland. Arriving on a work visa until February of next year, we shuffled through customs and immigration with nothing more than a friendly, tired nod from an official, who stamped our work visas with no questioning whatsoever. Not knowing how strict it would be, we printed out bank statements, proof of medical insurance, proof of visa, itinerary after New Zealand. Lonely planet posters claimed it could be very easy or very hard, depending on who was working immigration at the time. Luckily, the staff were as disinterested and exhausted as we were, and not only were we quickly waved through, but they asked us for nothing.

We were lucky to meet Tracey, a lovely Aussie girl sat next to us on our flight, who offered to take us ( with her Kiwi boyfriend) from the airport to downtown. During the 30 minute drive, they gave us a brief summary of the temperate, sometimes too rainy weather, the people, rugby, odd Kiwi accents, volcanoes in the area, and weird sports like zorbing and air carting. It was close to 3am, we were exhausted, we were on our way to our new home; except we didn't have a bed, dresser, or even an apartment to return to. For four sleepless, irritated nights, we endured a strange and smelly corporation of mildewed drunk people and nests of bed bugs called Fat Camel Hostel. It is the very LAST hostel we will stay in.
Over the past 3 weeks, Troy and I have secured an awesome downtown apartment, home furnishings, and jobs, to boot :0) We're on our way to becoming legitimate residents, buying property ( it's appreciated 80% in the last few years, still going strong) and getting back into routine! Did I say how much I love and miss working out??
Now we're ready for you guys: Mom, Dad, Sasch, Tony, Maki, Lucas, Debbie

XOXOXOX

Monday, February 05, 2007



(another trek blog http://daijalovestroy.blogspot.com/2006/10/day-five-continued-nanoseconds-before.html )

I know I’ve been seriously lax in my blogging. Thank you again for bearing with me, I’m sorry. But I swear there’s good reason. This has been a long, difficult month for both Troy and I; trials and tribulations, the worst we've ever endured. The glory of world travel has recently lost it’s seductive shimmer with these recent developments: We extinguished the supply of bananas ( no more morning, mid-day and evening smoothies) on the remote island paradise of Ko Kham and Troy had a crawfish bite his toe while snorkeling. Ok, no eye-rolling in the back there. Here’s what really happened. I’m trusting you with all the gory details…and that’s why you’re reading, right?

Dirty Laundry:

I’m irresponsible. You should also know I’ve never been known for my prudent choices. That’s probably because they’re not prudent, but rather, as J.D. Salinger says “conspicuously retarded”. My life has been an endless span of annoyingly unpaid parking tickets (which, evidently, do not sort themselves out?!), bounced checks, (like the cluster of 5 dollar ones written to Wok-n-roll Chinese restaurant in Tallahassee), non-sufficient funds, tardiness, surprised confusion, fender benders (induced by the decision to apply mascara rather than fretting over details of a moving vehicle) and my freshman year at FSU I inadvertently set the elevator afire by shoving a pair of hot pants in the shaft ( to keep it open while I moved my stuff, of course). I must plead your silence in that last confession, as I think they are still trying to figure out the mastermind who attempted to burn down the girls’ dorm. Anyway, in addition to the cataclysmic absent mindedness decorating my decision-making process, I also consciously make rash, poor decisions. I guess it’s partly because my choices are heavily pressured by expectations of ego and society, manifesting unpalatably, regrettably and ill-timed, like a schedule of unstoppable flatulence momentarily restrained at a dinner party.

My worst whoppers are often engendered with confident excitement, proclamations from apparently infallible research and a complete sodomization of common sense ( with the righteous feeling of shrewdly embracing it); closely resembling a certain government’s diplomatic" foreign policy. As I am decidedly not a proponent of the eloquent "this-ain't-my-first-Rodeo" Bush, or huge embarrassing failures, I’m not particularly proud of this.

Maybe I should have spent more time with my guidance counselor or a shrink?

Thankfully, I've been cosmically spared from the most dire consequences of my botched life choices. License to be dumb another day.

Anyhow,

I’ve also got this detrimental maniacal desire to move quickly, even (especially) when I don’t know where the hell I am headed; as if I could temporarily be a fugitive from Time. Impatience of epic and annoying ( ask Troy) proportions. But, why? Maybe just a desperate urge to fight off impotence, old age and interminable what-iffing in my life. Cruelly, this has doomed me to a life of bumbling confusion, emotion and constant change until I’ve made some mark on the world or find what I’m so fervently looking for.

But, will I ever?? Does anyone ever?

Donkey-punched by the all-mighty dollar, I repeatedly invest in what I don’t want to do, with precious little time truly thinking through, pondering the weighty: How shall I, how can I, how do I spend my life? I simply can’t bear waking up at 65 saying, “what have I done?!” Faint pangs of intuition endorsing the chase of pipe-dreams, head-slapping regressions into stupidity and pathetic monetary enslavement have governed the sobering sling-shot between boozed and bong-watered collegiate retard to almost-30, numbingly “responsible” payer of taxes, dutiful consumer, depositor to 401K, and consensual soul-selling corporate cog.

But can I eek away my life like this? Bored, political ass-kissing during the weekdays to gorge on fleetingly-pleasing plastic splurges on weekends? The Cambodian woman digging ditches all day would agree there are worse things. After all, it seems that capitalism and consumerism have hypnotized the world. But why, then, in my color-coordinated, brand-named comfort, am I so unsatisfied? Is having the ability to earn a living blissfully a spoiled notion of the pampered? Does anyone ever love their work? Or, perhaps, this is my mid-life crises come 20 years too early…

I had achieved the 3 C’s just as my mother fastidiously instilled: I had the career, the car and a sizeable down payment for the condo, but, alas, I had not a shred of contentment; which, at the heed of my annoyingly persistent soul, is the most vital, implicit “c” of all. (An aside**This should explain my blowing about 25k to aimlessly traipse far corners of the planet in a search for said “c”; the announcement of which, by the way, did not elicit congratulatory smiles all round, though my karma was boosted patiently deflecting inquisitions of my corporate career, wedding dresses, the apparent ticking of my biological clock and likelihood of future financial security. (Dreaming, maverick, aging, black-sheep: I commend your honesty, trueness to self. Don’t ever concede your individuality, sincerity, morality, grease up and grab those ankles, well, unless of course, it's for money. And lots of it -see Margomel? You did teach us something!**)

I pursued stark directions, no matter their difficulty, randomly, intensely, and with short-lived alacrity, my flighty passion handicapped with a fear of failure and defensive poor follow-through. It won’t hurt as much, if I didn’t really try. Born were my roaring-twenties of constant change; studying for and taking the LSAT ( before I considered the hours and dry reading), recording a professional CD with a band ( which I subsequently abandoned), applying to international MBA programs (then realizing I don’t like corporations), investing 5 steadfast years in networking ( and being completely disenchanted), attempting to move to Hawaii (discovering vacation is separate from living). So, as you can see, I’ve quite the hap-hazard resume; not the stuff of dreams for an ambitious 27-year-old. And to think, a friend we met traveling thought I had it figured out!

Naturally, leaving everything I knew, (family, friends, career, car, and down payment on the condo) to pursue an inkling to travel far and wide, long-term, was one such impulsive idea which, given my past credo of decision-making, was a lot easier for me to heed than my emotional antithesis, my loving best friend and partner, Troy. Life was simpler when I was the only one bearing the consequences of my wild fancies. Now I handle the utter destruction of two lives...

To give you an idea, those who don’t know him, he is the closest thing to a quintessential son, brother, friend, and partner: intelligent, funny, sensitive and loyal. His trademarks are logic, sensibility and practicality; which only make his interest in me and acquiescence to cut loose all the more mysterious. Nothing seems to shake his imperturbable calm, (my screeching freak-out sessions in apparent vain) and you’d be hard-pressed to find someone praised by more mothers world-wide. Truly I couldn’t have engineered a better engineer. Yes, I count my lucky stars…

Despite his darned level-headedness, I’d launched a campaign of persuasion, as my sweetheart was markedly against leaving it all; his blossoming engineering career, family, friends and desire for financial perfection the opposing, angelic voice to my devilish prepositions. He was finally starting the adult life he’d dreamed of and prepared for, for so long. I, on the other hand, was plainly unhappy with my job (despite the ability to make money), enduring the mania of a gossipy pill popper appointed -in a resplendent act of corporate effenciency- to a managerial position, consequent tremors of my heart and sucking of all life from my veins. It must be noted, however, Troy was engrained with a singular, straight-forward, childhood calling, for which he was armed with an insatiable curiosity about the world around him and overwhelming mathematical prowess. He was always, effortlessly, to be an engineer. In addition, his work environment was vastly superior. So, it’s fair to say, I’m doing a wee bit more soul-searching than he is, unless those wigs, prosthetics and size 15 stilettos I found are his…that’s another story. ( just kidding, Lucas, Carlos and Debbie)

Certainly not a newsflash, but being in a long-term committed relationship changes everything, changed me, most notably due to the ten-letter relationship maker or breaker: compromise. More importantly, the desire to compromise. Any pair lasting longer than a few months can attest to this. How else could we share a lifetime when we’ve different tastes, goals, and dogmas; those which, after my bouts of commanding and supplicating, still remain disagreed upon? I’m conditioned to get what I want by years of successfully utilizing my velvet hammer and Gallagher-esque negotiation practices; family and friends duped into the front row, unhappily smattered with flesh, juices and other residual carnage before, pulling up their protective plastic sheet, resigned and weirded-out, leaving me to my strangely pointless destruction.

Obstinate and erratic behavior notwithstanding, Troy perpetually tries to make things work to make us happy: the hallmark of a truly fantastic friend or spouse. And, therefore, challenging as it may be, so shall I!

At a many-times-still-immature 27, however, redirecting the egocentric stare of teenage-dom outward has been a slow and painful enterprise for me, (even with patient encouragement from my Prince Charming) my well-trained attentions focusing constantly, reflexively on myself. Oh, the arduous charge of foregoing personal desires for someone else, someone you love. (I’m not talking about getting Captain Crunch when you wanted Lucky Charms, or watching ESPN when you wanted Laguna Beach, although those too are major relationship sacrifices.) I’m talking about real pain and longing evident in something you truly wanted, given up for your loved one. **an aside: I’m really starting to better appreciate the plight of the fortuitous trio – branded at 15 as self-centered, abjectly belligerent, simultaneous 1st, 2nd and 3rd comings of the antichrist but in the clarity of semi-maturity and hindsight, just doing their best - namely, my parents, who must be laughing loudly right now**

After much ado, he finally agreed to leaving our life on the basis that, at the end of one year, we both would return to the US, to work, rectify our finances and work towards our Masters degrees; rebuilding some semblance of establishment. A year ago, I assumed I would have discovered my calling, and subdued my itchy feet with extensive travel through 14 countries, however, on the cusp of this impending deadline ( much to Troy’s annoyance) that is not the case. It’s closing time, and like a spoiled child treated to, hypnotized by the vivid Technicolor, blustering merriment, endless excitement of a sugar-filled amusement park, I don’t wanna to go home L

Months prior, we’d briefly discussed setting up shop in Taipei, Sydney or even Auckland; for New Zealand we prudently obtained a working holiday visa back in May in Rome. Because the year-end was still far off, and not yet demanding of our attentions, the discussions were not entirely serious or fruitful. Time elapsed, as it has the rude tendency to do, and we were confronted with the austere dichotomy of closing this chapter of our life, returning home to the states OR staking out an exotic locale to pseudo-settle, complete with address and phone number, then continuing to travel. You can probably guess what I wanted to do.

And then there was Troy.

The past few weeks, we’d kept a dizzying pace, zig-zagging taxingly across Asia by way of reckless taxis, red-eye flights, dilapidated rickshaws, second-class stuffed trains, smog-choked tuk-tuks and 40-hour bus rides (apparently through hell), damned with ungodly sounds, smells and the deepest, most furthest stretching potholes in existence. All things you guys have heard about before.

In their newness, these things imparted culture shock and adventure; entertaining novelties, becoming a part of colorful memory as our first travel times. Now, they become quickly exhausting, intolerably stressful and all-together overwhelming, making me wish I’d a magic wand to instantly materialize somewhere else. This, in addition to living with a few tattered clothes from a smelly backpack, (never being able to dress-up) always eating out, always pinching pennies, not having a sanctuary, gym or routine of your own, and constantly changing cities, languages, cultures and countries has finally taken its toll. As a result, when you’re blasé about fantastic locations, you know it’s time to slow down, chill out.

Thought I’d never say that, didn’t you!

Full circle: the reason for our inertia and my lack of writing was this major life decision: Go home or stay abroad. Troy was hesitant, a tad homesick, needing to settle his finances, and leaning towards going home to Arizona. He was also, however, seduced by International work experience, and the idea of surfing, rafting, canyoning, snowboarding, and mountaineering abroad. With some much-appreciated parental assistance in selling Troy’s truck, my opinion was immediate. His took a little longer.

I spent the better part of 2 weeks explaining why I feel settling in New Zealand is the better option for both of us. We can get an apartment, transportation and communication again. We can settle into the routine and comfort of a normal life while still continuing to explore the world; Australia, Fiji, Philippines, Indonesia. We can live in a foreign country and gain valuable experience from doing so. I rationalized. I explained. I coerced. I pleaded. I tried to show him the US and his impressive credentials and resume are not going anywhere. We can always go back, when we want, if we need. I also conveyed that, although I really did not want to, I would accompany him home, back to Arizona, if that's what he really wanted. The ol' C-O-M-P-R-O-M-I-S-E

As I explained above, I've pondered salad dressings for longer than this. Troy, however, sensibly refused to decide. He needed time, thought, and advice ( from someone other than me) before he chose. He wrote a list of pros and cons, and weighed the columns. My little engineer.

It was a trying month, but I can announce we are in agreement and, YIPEE, moving to Auckland, New Zealand! Both Families, Ruba, Maki, Sascha, Kurt, Lucas, Tony: you guys all have a place to crash if you come to visit :)

In the next month we’ll hit Singapore ( again), Darwin, and Brisbane before settling into the north island, New Zealand metropolis.

Stay Tuned!!

xoxoxoxoxo

Saturday, January 06, 2007

A few more Nepali trekking blogs updated ( remember to scroll down, back to October)
http://daijalovestroy.blogspot.com/2006/10/day-four-part-three-immediately-i-lose.html
http://daijalovestroy.blogspot.com/2006/10/day-5-bagarchap-to-chame-2160m-to.html

and pics on fotki updated! www.fotki.com/visceraltext

Happy New Year-2007!

Wishing the happiest of birthdays to Poppa Bear and Clemens :D
To all our friends: you were sorely missed on NYE, but we'll have one again together soon
XOXOXOXOXOX

Monday, December 25, 2006






MERRY CHRISTMAS :D

As all of you know, we are in Goa, India for the holidays with our buddies Allen, Holly, Christian, Robin, Christiana, Ron, Daniel and Umberto. Tonight is our lobster Christmas dinner!!

We wish you a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. Think of us while you feast on turkey, yams and pumpkin pie.

Love you, miss you and see you all very soon

xoxoxoxoxox
Dai and Troy

Monday, December 11, 2006


If you think India is swarming, chaotic, uncomfortable and choked with grime, dust, smog and gut-wrenching stench, you’re right. Compared with back home, it might as well be a different planet. The abject squalor, unscrupulous scam artists, annoyingly-persistent rickshaw-wallahs, suffocating bustle, and ear-splitting vehicular horns piercing painfully, incessantly are, for many, too much; steamrolling even the toughest traveler’s tolerance. Moreover, the changes in diet, air quality, lack of sleep (deafening noise is resident, uniform, fundamental) and exhausting hyper-awareness to thwart touts grate, inevitably, upon any residual sagacity. One traveler confessed needing to leave as he’d become “quite the a*shole”, falling quickly into agitated disenchantment.

There are just too many people. Public infrastructure is stressed comically beyond its faculty. The power grid is intermittent, unreliable and volatile; threatening to deep fry our sensitive Ipods, digital camera and laptop in a whimsical surge. While outside, lungs, in search of breath, will distend on the noxious stew of burned-oil, stagnant urine, manure and thick, impossibly-permeating dust.

Transportation of any government-run variety is a tedious abomination; a loony caricature guaranteed to be uncomfortable, tardy and mismanaged. Accurate transit information is elusive; hidden disparately for a hasty, ill-timed treasure hunt; usually resulting in a fantastic perversion of one’s schedule. Only the dogged glean fact from the cryptic, mostly fallacious mutterings of government employees, solely charged, in their impudent apathy, with foiling your route; which will undoubtedly incorporate additional, miscellaneous, multi-hour delays. Furthermore, the pictures of 2 and 4-legged bodies rammed into, hanging out of, and clustered on top of moving vehicles are not fabrications.

In the cities, unhygienic, frantic, random, dangerous, idiotically bureaucratic things flounder all around in teeming, 24-hour pandemonium; far beyond Western comprehension..

Daily rituals, simple errands, even recreation can become abhorrent as Western standards of cleanliness, logic and overall synergy deride the visceral cultural experience that, I’ve come to know, IS India. The incessant challenges are, however, not without reward. After a futile, vexing struggle, contrasting my lifestyle requirements with theirs, I learned this frenetic, fascinating country is savored by the resolute, whom, in their thirst for understanding, patiently accept the good, the bad and the extremely ridiculous, ( much like you would in any person) as an imperfect whole. Killing India with kindness and tolerance is central to maintaining personal peace, else, you’re confined to the downward spiral of embittered disappointment. Once I vilified my judgments, comparisons and enlivened my sense of humor ( which was not easy for me), I discovered my passion for this intimidating realm. There is a saying: anything worth having does not come easily; and such is the case with India

Notwithstanding admitted regressions into aggravation, I’m enraptured, sometimes in the very same breath and therefore I sympathize with those who classify their relationship with India as “love/hate”. What other than marvelous, exotic, addictive cultural experiences could lure you back into seemingly masochistic anarchy?! One moment I’m infatuated with her vegetarian, sweet yogurt and cinnamon-spiced cuisine, overtly social people, Middle Eastern Mughal architecture, and incredibly ornate clothing. In another moment, I ponder going home, breaking up, after she treats me like a soulless ATM, poisons me with rotten victuals (condemning me to a squat toilet), and even steals my only pair of shoes from my feet. But her wrath is capricious, fleeting, and it’s not too long before she’s wooing me, splendidly, again…

Grotesque, inconvenient, painful experiences and all, I am thankful she exists, lucky enough to see her firsthand, as Earth would be a painfully homogenous place were it conquered by the sedentary, climate-controlled, hyper-convenience of the West. Many a complainer would be done a substantial service, toughening up, living a much different (perhaps also more fulfilling) life on this side of the world. **Were we really made for air-conditioned shopping malls?** Still, acclimating to an environment and lifestyle so shockingly different, even wild by comparison, is a delicate, exigent, time-consuming process. But, I’m willing.

India’s lifted me up, beat me down, and I can say, haggardly, I’m not through yet.

We’ve discovered Vishnu, Shiva, Ganesh, saddhus, yoga, meditation, and mysticism. We’ve dined on mind-blowing dosas, chai (the original stolen from Starbucks), uthapams, puris, samosas, lassis and gulab jammun. We’ve been cheated, helped, harassed, extolled, chased, enchanted, and befriended. This country incarnates the inherent living dichotomy in all of us, the epic contrast between forces side-by-side: yin and yang, black and white, good and evil. In touch with my ongoing metamorphosis and education, I appreciate these honest incidents, traversing this less accessible and, consequently, more authentic culture, feeling the richness, the diversity, the over-populous pulse tangibly beneath my fingertips. When I’m pissed, when I’m sick and when it hurts, I chant the doctored maxim: When India doesn’t kill me…

Monday, November 13, 2006


**Scroll backwards to see trekking entries-starts Oct 13th**
More PICS uploaded www.fotki.com/visceraltext
Thankfully, I couldn't foresee the events to transpire during our guideless and porterless journey through Nepal's central Annapurna region, because (as many of you know) I am not what you'd call calm in the face of adversity. Let's agree my pathetic trajectory through challenge or crisis consists of several hyperventilating freak-out sessions and crazed screeches before a loss of consciousness, time and tolerance (on the part of my companions). I can admit I'm probably the most annoying, exacerbating, complicating force to negotiate on top of adversity. I have no medical training and no mountaineering experience under my belt. Hell, I'm not even an "outdoor" girl.

I'm acrophobic, claustrophobic, prone to panic attacks, a hypochondriac, control freak and afflicted with a tad of OCD, where I obsess about the worst outcome of any given situation, like dropping my brand new laptop outside the 4th-storey window I sit against typing this.

Right.

So, how was it I was with Troy at the foot of the tallest mountain range in the world, preparing to circumnavigate several 25,000ft + peaks? (Many of you are probably wondering how I was accompanied at all? *innocent giggle*)

My new best practice: by the seat of my pants, on a wing and a prayer trying to remember: THIS IS LIFE! I have wasted too much energy on this trip (and in life for that matter) in the past and future, each breath being filled with both dread and longing, while the perfect, present moment ends in vain. Planning, regretting, worrying, in a never-ending cycle ceasing ( I am learning) only when I do.

Premonitions of the remoteness, inherent dangers, infections, physical pain /discomfort, environment and incessant exhaustion involved with trekking through the Himalaya for 25 days would have only hampered our adventurous experience, as we blissfully wandered Kathmandu, gathering final provisions.

Cleverly, for the sake of our experience, Troy coaxed me to "let go", as was necessary on the choppy flight of antique Airbus 155 from Bangkok to Kathmandu, which did, honestly, help a bit until I saw a feathering crack extending from the floorboard to the ceiling which, I could have sworn, was sucking out air. The news of an overheated-engine and emergency landing in Delhi due to missed maintenance the week prior vetoed any calming thoughts as I tried, casually, to blame my profuse sweating on green curry from the airport lounge. Tepid water chugged and last of my three stale peanuts chewed, I succeeded in grinding my molars to the gum as I mentally re-enacted the plane ripping in half over Myanmar.

More wasted prana (from Hindu, life energy), but I digress.

The TRC, Trekking Registry Certificate, a bill which was still pending implementation in Kathmandu on Oct. 14th (our set date of departure), requires the use of either porter or guide from a recognized agency on any trek in Nepal. Considering ourselves lucky, being the last of those who could freely wander the conservation area trails, we purchased two local maps, an Annapurna region guidebook and a compass, deciding, whatever the outcome, to seize the day.

Troy and I are forever changed.

In this sacred land, the second highest country in the world ( first being Tibet), ancient lifestyles withstand time, religions meld, evolve and resonate, idyllic landscapes tower and people subsist as they did over 300 years ago: tending to animals and living from the land in a beautiful simplicity which patronizes why many Westerners live the chaotic way we do.

Faced with something truly celestial, spiritual, and rare, I was awe-struck, dumbfounded, cleansed. Who is this person inside me climbing these vast, steep cliffs? Dirty, uncomfortable and exhausted treading treacherous, narrow footpaths of mud, rock, and snow from dawn until dusk, I ventured into a part of me I hadn't known before.

The separation from modernity, communication and media allowed me to concentrate on doing one thing at a time; sipping a cup of tea, climbing a challenging path, writing in a journal. All meditative and purifying in their garnering of my undivided attention, these simple acts cultivated a sublime joy, which was intensified by the surreal scenes I'd become a part of each day. Strangely, unexpectedly, the obsessive clinging to existence, perpetual phobias of danger and death, and inertia of worry and doubt dissolved as easily as the crusts of foreboding ice on our path each morning.

Anyone who has spent time in the remote regions of Nepal will tell you what we've just experienced: there is something magical, intangible, intensely spiritual about a journey through the Himalaya.

We were away for 25 days. I will organize the postings by days of the trek, starting Oct 13th: our bus ride from Kathmandu to Besi Sahar. Hang in there! Soon, I will have everything up to date.


XOXOXOXOXOXO